Friday, July 5, 2024

Page Fifty-Three - Bunch of Bits

 

Since it’s hot as Alabama asphalt in July, the humidity is around 120% (probably not possible, but it feels like it!), and I can’t paint anything, I’m doing some bits.

Before pic

Other side - note the loose support and the many bent fins
Step two: I soaked the radiator’s innards in a diluted muriatic acid bath.  Muriatic acid took off most of the 60ish years of crud from the outside too.  Step three: Torch off the old solder and clean the tanks down to the brass.  (I should have taken pics of the disassembled and cleaned parts, but I get into things and forget to grab the camera, sorry.)
Down to the brass and resoldered
The core looked pretty good for 60ish years of work.

Look at all those straight fins!
Step six:  Paint it!Line 1 – “Dullys” best guess (maybe “Oullys” or maybe “Olillys”)  Maybe the repair dude’s last name
All the bits and baubles
(or as they say in Alabama, it's all blowed up!)
Fortunately, I have two valves so after tearing one to bits, I had one to remind me how to put it back together.  Pretty straight forward fix here, and simple valve really, except that no one sells parts for the valve, so don’t break anything!  Tear it down, bead blast it clean, paint it, and throw it back together.
Master Cylinders and Pedals:  I had one brake line to bend and install, the one from the master cylinder to the power brake servo (brake booster for those on this side of the Atlantic).  Of course, I had to rebuild the master cylinders (clutch and brake) first, but I’ve done that many times before, so it was only a matter of getting the kits.
I bead blasted and powder coated the bracket too, smashing!

Radiator:  I don’t need it yet but may as well get at it.  Step one: disassemble.  You can see from the before pics that one of the supports was unattached.  I removed it, the other one, and the mere suggestion of a fan guard just under the radiator cap as well.  I needed to bead blast and paint them, of course.

Step four:  Painstakingly straighten all the cooling fins on both sides, not hard but TEDIOUS!

Step five:  Reassemble - resolder the radiator supports and fan guard.  Of course, I painted the inside of the rad supports before gluing them back on.  What did you think I would do?  I’m allergic to rust, remember.  My grandfather owned a radiator shop, and I’ve seen my grandfather, father and uncles repair myriads of radiators so this was old hat for me.

Shiny black but lumpy tanks
The engine bay side

Something Kinda Way Cool:  I love these little tidbits!  As I was taking the rad tanks back to brass, I found a repair shop’s hand engraved (with an electric engraving pencil, see pic) repair notice on the top tank.  It’s a six-line engraving, reading (as best as old eyes, a magnifying glass and photographic software can decern).  I added a pic so my small but dedicated group of readers can take a stab at translation.

Electric engraving pencil

Take your stab at tranlation!
So-so pic hard to get the right angle
Line 2 – “JWD” (possibly “JWP” or “JW(lower case cursive)s”  Maybe the repair dude’s initials

Line 3 – “F f & Rep” (possibly P f & Rep)  Maybe the shop’s abbreviated name

Line 4 – “9-28-73”  (the coolest part, this radiator was repaired two months shy of 51 years ago as of today (7/5/2024))

Line 5 – “Midwest” (this is quite clear)

Line 6 – “Mazda” (also quite clear)

My interpretation:  One of Alphie’s previous owners had the radiator serviced at the Midwest Mazda dealership by a dude either named Dully and/or with the initials “JWD” on September 28, 1973.  Maybe the dealership’s repair shop name is FF & Repair.  Alphie had an Illinois license plate in the boot when I dragged him home, so maybe the dealership was there.  Of course, I went-a-googling, but it was 51 years ago, and the dealership has surely closed or changed names and the repair shop is long closed.  Googling “Midwest Mazda” gets you all the Mazda dealerships in the Midwest.  But who knows, we may punch in the magic search string into google and find more information.  If I do, I’ll put it in the blog.

What’s your translation of radiator hieroglyphics?

Heater Valve Refurbish:  I’ve decided to repaint Alphie with the little dish where the bonnet latch lives in place.  Which means I need to clean and fit the heater core, which means I need to run the heater hoses, which means I need to refurbish all the bits that go with the hoses, like the Adel clamps (not the singer – those little loop clamps that route hoses and wires), hose clamps and the heater valve.

Crusty and Rusty!

Brilliant Bling!

The last brake line!

With the brake master cylinder mounted the bulkhead (aka firewall for the yanks), I used the old brake line as a pattern for the new.  I had to mash some bubble flares to the ends, but after running all the other brake lines, I’ve learned some tricks about making them fit.  Classic Sunbeam sells a spanking stainless steel clutch downpipe, bent to factory specs, and I could never hand build that!  It looks brilliant!

Clutch master cylinder with Classic Sunbeam's stainless downpipe
Strange angle, but the stainless downpipe
from the slave cylinder's point of view

So, if you mount the master cylinders, then you may as well clean up the pedals.  I had four to choose from so I laid them on the bench and chose the best two.  They are all the same, I was surprised to see.  Bead blast and powder coated them because powder coating holds up scuffs and such better than paint.  The only thing left is to contort myself under the dash to install everything.  Under dash work sucks, even without the dash or doors.  All new stainless bits for the pedals too on account of my rust allergy.  Sorted!

Accelerator linkage, before pic

Cleaned and painted!

Powder coated and shiney!

Pedals in situ (vocab word for the day)
The accelerator will need to be anchored to the floor,
 and I have new pedal covers for the brakd and clutch

Windscreen Washer Bottle:  Again, I have two, so I cleaned up both.  The cleaner is sulfamic acid (NOT sulfuric acid, mind you!) mixed with water.  It dissolves rust and removes the rust stains.  I had hoped it would remove the yellowing and it did reduce it, but the yellow shows its age and these have “Rootes Genuine Parts Special Accessories” embossed on the side, so that’s cool.

Bottles before cleaning
Rust! makes a body break out!

Still a bit yellow, but a big difference!
The bracket got some cleaning too.


2 comments:

Andy D said...

As always the parts are looking great and that was cool to see the engravings on the radiator they must of had pride in the work they did and by the looks of it they did a good enough job to last this long , the first time I zapped myself was repairing one of those engravers I pulled it apart fixed it then plugged it to test it before reassembling and proceeded to stick my thumb on the 240v wire , funny afterwards freaked my mum out at the time , love how clean and neat the engine bay is , Cheers Andy

The Alpine Project said...

Andy!
I love the finishing work when all the preparation comes together to make a car. I bought a windshield last week, although it may be a while before I can install it.
It doesn't seem like it, but I'm getting ready to repaint it. I want to spary a few parts, like the bonnet latch tray, in place so that I don't scratch up the screws etc. when I install it after paint. Hopefully, it will look more "factory" that way.
I haven't blogged about how many times I've made myself bleed over the last five years, suffice to say, A LOT!
Keep 'em on the road! Cheers