|
Our goal! |
This time we’re working on Alphie’s mouth fungus (OK, it’s rust like every problem with Sunbeam sheet metal,
but I am tired of calling it cancer). Rootes
used 22-gauge metal (by my handy thickness gauge), which when exposed to
thirtyish years under a tree, rusts, efficiently.
My goal is to give Alphie a new
snoz, but as I get closer to gluing it on, I find things that must be done, or
would be much easier to do with her snoz on sawhorses. Like fixing mouth fungus…
These before pics show what we’re
facing. These pieces are the inside
cheeks of the front cowling that funnels air to the radiator. And, unlike all the metal I have fitted beneath
the rocker panels and under the fenders, will show. Fabrication
that you can actually see when Alphie breathes again!
|
Before: Left cheek from the radiator side.
|
|
Before: Left Cheek from inside the fender |
Option 1: Patch the cheeks. BUT they are very thin, very rusted and even
with the snoz belly up, it’s a tight fit getting the welder in
there, not to mention clamps
and Vice Grips to hold a patch in place.
Besides the You Tube videos have all warned me that “you can’t weld
rust;” I tried it, they're right, you can’t. You just burn more holes.Option 2: Fabricate new cheeks and
weld in some good, clean Lowes sheet metal. I
went with Option 2.
First, I gently chiseled out the
right-side cheek because 1) it was easier to get to and 2) more flimsily attached, i.e. easier than the left side. With the cheek
removed, I transferred the rough shape to card stock then refined it to fit Alphie’s snoz more accurately.
Next, I transferred paper to metal and cut out the patches. My cheap band saw cuts 22-gauge sheet metal with far more control than it does 16-gauge, so that's a win.
With Alphie’s snoz flopped upside
down on sawhorses, I fine-tuned the patches' fit. I made some angles that I spot-welded
to the cheek to make surfaces where I can spot weld the cheek to the inside of
Alphie’s mouth (see the pics). I also
cleaned the attachment areas inside the fender well of surface rust because, you know, you can’t weld
rust.
|
Inner cheek parts, in rusted, paper and metal |
|
Outer lip parts, in rusted, paper, and metal |
|
Left cheek with angles attached
|
The coves at the sides of Alpine
mouths are two pieces, an upper and lower.
On the right side, only the lower piece was rusted through. I’m not replacing the upper piece, but I needed
to patch the lower inside corner because it is where the cheek attaches. I carefully cut out the diseased metal and MIG
welded the patch in place. Welding
22-gauge is trickier than 16-gauge, lower amperage with quick bursts.
|
Right-side lip patch held in place with Vise-Grips |
|
Lip patch welded in. I'll use JB Weld to feather the edges |
On the left, the upper piece has a
canker sore and the lower was just rusted through.
Fortunately, I traced the shapes to cardstock from the rusty pieces I remeoved. I have mocked up the new pieces but have not cut
out the old and welded it in the new yet. I’ll
add pics as I take on that task.
|
Left lip and its canker sore |
|
Left upper and lower lips mocked up (shown upside down, sorry) |
I'll update this page as I finish welding in the cheek and lip patches.
New Pictures!
|
Both cheeks installed - there are problems, but I won't point them out :) |
|
The left cheek mostly installed - from inside the fender well. I temporarily installed the headlight repair ring to keep things lined up |
|
Left cheek from the the radiator side |
|
Alphie's canker sore repair. The bottom lip is tacked in until I have the valance to align it. |
New, new pictures!
|
Exfoliating the snoz. New Harbor Freight toys! |
|
Someone brass brazed a few repairs. As long as they are solid, I'm leaving them. I have had to reweld a few of them. |
2 comments:
Nice work lots of fiddly stuff which is great if your in the mood for it :-)
Thanks Andy D - "fiddly" as fitting British understatement.
Post a Comment