I peeled off Alphie’s old nose and cleaned up the structure underneath. I grafted in new metal onto her bones, closing in the inner rocker-to-foot well. Cutting out diseased metal, welding in new tissue, welding, grinding, welding, grinding and more grinding. Same ol’, same ol…
I discovered that the Donor’s right
front wing is a replacement, which I just sawed off to replace the right wing
on Alphie – a twofer! The Donor’s snoz has age spots, a rusted septum, rotten teeth and bad gums.
It also has…
Black Eyes
Alphie’s original eyes got a solid
punch - they were severely black and no longer lined up, but the Donor never took a smack to the face, so
the one I’m working on is not technically a black eye. Although Alphie’s original eyes were… Hell, never mind, I’m straining the medical
analogies.
Here's the problem - returning to original dimensions |
Let’s look at the Donor’s rusty
eye socket. The area below the driver’s
side headlight is rusted
through, leaving me little reference points for where
the metal should meet. Fortunately, with
the headlight buckets reinstalled and a tiny smidge of straight metal (see pic), I figured
out the amount of space to make the fender line up with the chin valance.
I picked up a cheap contour gauge sometime,
somewhere and it’s damn handy. I used it
to map the contour of the fender and transfer it to a piece of sheet
metal. I cut the metal to the curve then
cut a 2X16 cm strip of sheet metal, which I TIGed to the curve. The result is a bracket that will be spot
welded to the inside of the fender and will span the gap of rotted out snoz.
Gauging a contour with the contour gauge (Ha! A frowny face;) |
The Fix! |
Here's how it works |
Clearly, there is more metal work to do, but "the fix" allows me to adjust the spacing and gives me some solid metal to attach the chin valance. The pic shows a rough fitting in dire need of tweaking, but it shows how it works. Once I weld "the fix" in, I will need to fill in the gap and reweld the seam below the headlight opening.